Wednesday
Nov032010

Give Up the Prep

What is the big deal about The Preppy Handbook and True Prep?  No, this is not hook to get you to read an article.  It is an honest-to-G-d question.  Why do people like them?  I, for one, do not.

What is so entering about 424 pages of preppies do this and preppies do that.  It is neither interesting nor informative.  A list of loafer that are acceptable?  The type of mistresses your father may or may not have?  A picture of people wearing trench coats?  Preppy lingo?  (Yes according to Lisa Birnbach, the "Preppies" would "prefer not to expend energy speaking.")  Acceptable charity events?

Besides not wanting all this uselessness in your head, who is a "preppy-wannabe"?  The preppy lifestyle is a lifestyle.  It is not one's life goal to be preppy, and if it is, you have a sad, long life ahead of you and this book won't help.  The information is hardly accurate either.

Clogs?  Besides being highly unfashionable, unless we are discussing Chanel's from last Spring, they are not preppy.  The preppy shoe must be tasteful, detailed, at-least look hand-made and should have a little air frivolity.  This is just one of many examples.

But this takes it to different level.Stubbs & Wootton created these shoes for Lisa Birnbach's book.  They are featured on the cover of True Prep.  Not even people who liked the original liked true prep.  But these shoes are now available for $425!!!  Ms. Birnbach clearly thinks very highly of herself and her books, but I don't.

Overall, don't waste your time with these books.  If you want to be preppy, go to Lacoste and buy a polo.

Sunday
May232010

Lanvin Loses in Paris

An original Lanvin sketch by Jeanne Lanvin herself

Yes, it was a polished, clean, and put together collection.  And sure contained some of the it-styles this season, such as rompers loose pleating, flow, and over-designed sequined clothing.  But the Lanvin 2010 Paris Fahion Week Show lacked the ingenuity and creativity 2010 should have brought.

2010 was not a boring year in the fashion world.  Gucci interested us with their harness, prints and warrior-meets-office style.  DKNY grabbed our attention with their fabulous prints, black and white and color.  Celine, which made its comeback this year, roused us with the use of dulled yellows, oranges, and browns combined with military style clothing and, of course, their clean lines.  Burberry Prorsum engrossed us in their draping, belts, fitting, and shoulder pads.  And Ralph Lauren's roots in the Bronx displayed themselves creatively in a vintage-style, yet new, preppy collection, as he was inspired by the Great Depression during these times of financial hardship. 

But Lanvin lacked this essence of new ideas that the other design houses maintained.  Ot was dry and had overdone pieces.  There was no innovation.

Lanvin was founded in 1909 by Jeanne Lanvin, a milliner and dressmaker by trade.  Lanvin's outfits for her daughter, Marguerite, were so exquisite that the wealthy asked for replicas so that thier own children could wear such fine clothing.  Soon enough, she was a mother daughter designer.  She also became known for her robes de style jumpsuit, a dress that had a full skirt and a more fitted bodice.  Lanvin continued her conquest of the fashion world with boutiques filled with deoc, menswear, fur, lingerie, and perfume.

She was a creative chico whose clothing embodied detail, volume, and many accessories.  I can only wish that this fashion show could have gone back to its roots like Mr. Lauren's did.

The making of the clothing was impeccable.  They had all the right fabrics.  The outfits' hems all hit the right places.  The necklines were right where any neckline had ever been.  THAT WAS THE PROBLEM!

This show was, if I may, boring.  There was no "wow factor".  There was no moment of "ohmygosh, can I that?"  It was just clothing, on models who were walking down a catwalk.  It doesn't even deserve the title of runway because it didn't personify what fashion is.  It was clothing, not fashion.

Many of the pieces were uninspired while some were over inspired.   There was one piece that looked like a near copy of a Donna Karan suit.  One had a beautiful, flowing top, but the bottom had something weird going on in every single place.  And I also felt bad for the model: there was only one sleeve.  There was definitely reminiscences of BCBG Maz Azria's use of bold stripes.  But only if there had been more color and prints.

And the accessories were a nightmare!  I believe I saw a necklace had ceramic snakes on it!

There were only two outfits that I found striking.  The first was a blue dress with loose pleats, drapery, flow, and a small collar that rested on the shoulders.  On one side it was sleeveless and the other had a beautiful long sleeve that hung perfectly.

The other was an one shoulder black dress.  Instead of an ordinary "Grecian" lay, there was a giant ruffle at the neckline.  It was fitted, and the hem hit the model's leg in the perfect spot.  I also loved that, like the other dress, on one side it was sleeveless and other it had an elbow length sleeve.  And they accessorized it with a black leather glove that completed the look.


Overall it was average and weak, not presenting anything new.  If only Ms. Lanvin were still alive to help her design company.